The Hidden Triggers In Your Skincare: Ingredients That Worsen Fungal Acne

on

 Fungal Acne Series | Post 4

You'd think a product labeled "non-comedogenic", "oil-free," or "for acne-prone skin" would be safe for fungal acne. That's what I thought, too, until my bumps kept coming back worse, even when I followed "expert" advice. Turns out, most of these products weren't designed with Malassezia in mind. 

Here's what I learned  (the hard way):


Ingredients That Feed Fungal Acne

Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) is caused by an overgrowth of yeast that naturally lives on our skin. Some skincare ingredients can exacerbate these issues, leading to worsening inflammation, clogged follicles, and a bumpy texture.


1. Fatty acids and oils, including natural oils like olive oil, coconut oil, soybean oil, jojoba oil, and sunflower oil. Malassezia can metabolize many saturated fatty acids, especially those with a carbon chain length of C11-124, which helps it proliferate (Gupta et al., 2003; Plotkin et al., 2007)

2. Esters and Emulsifiers: Often found in moisturizers and cleansers, esters give products a silky feel, but they are easily broken down into fatty acids by the yeast. Watch out for these ingredients: Isopropyl myristate, glyceryl stearate SE, polysorbates, and PEGs. These ingredients have been associated with comedogenicity and increased follicular occlusion, especially when fungal overgrowth is present (Rudramurthy et al., 2014)

3. Fermented Ingredients: Many K-beauty products include rice ferment, galactomyces, or kombucha extract, all of which are yeast-derived and may trigger or worsen symptoms. Although I did not find studies linking fermented ingredients to Malassezia flare-ups, anecdotal evidence and user reports from dermatology forums and case reviews support this observation. 

4. Occlusives like petrolatum and shea butter: While occlusives help barrier repair, they can trap heat and moisture, creating the perfect environment for yeast growth when fungal acne is active. 

Note that products containing these ingredients aren't bad. They just aren't ideal for fungal-prone skin.


How I now choose products

I now vet every product by asking: 

  • Does it have fungal-feeding ingredients?
  • Are the oils/esters listed in the top 5 ingredients triggering?
  • Does it soothe and balance my barrier?
For more guidance in your vetting process, you can also use sites such as:
  • sezia.co
  • Skincarisma
  • Folliculitis scout

Here are a few ingredients that helped me heal

  • Zinc PCA: Sebum regulating and antimicrobial
  • Selenium sulfide: Antifungal, shown to be effective against Malassezia (Gupta & Kohli, 2003)
  • Azeliac acid: Anti-inflammatory, keratolytic, and safe for fungal acne
  • Urea: Hydrates and exfoliates gently
  • Niacinamide: Improves skin tone and reduces irritation.

Final thoughts

Fungal acne isn't just about cleansing or using antifungals; it is also about avoiding the ingredients that feed the issue. 
Once I identified the triggers in my routine, the healing really began. 

In my next post, I will walk you through how to read skincare labels without needing a chemistry degree. You will start spotting red flags fast!










References

Fitton, A., & Goa, K. L. (1991). Azelaic acid: A review of its pharmacological properties and therapeutic efficacy in acne and hyperpigmentary skin disorders. Drugs, 41(5), 780–798. [https://doi.org/10.2165/00003495-199141050-00008](https://doi.org/10.2165/00003495-199141050-00008)

Gupta, A. K., & Kohli, Y. (2003). Evaluation of the efficacy and safety of topical 2% ketoconazole and 2.5% selenium sulfide shampoos in the treatment of seborrheic dermatitis: A randomized, double-blind, controlled trial.Journal of Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, 7(2), 107–112. [https://doi.org/10.1007/s10227-002-0140-y](https://doi.org/10.1007/s10227-002-0140-y)

Plotkin, B. E., Mathes, B. M., & Crounse, R. G. (2007). The role of lipid composition in the pathogenesis of pityrosporum folliculitis. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 56(5 Suppl), AB16.

Rudramurthy, S. M., Honnavar, P., Dogra, S., Yegneswaran, P. P., Handa, S., & Chakrabarti, A. (2014). Association of Malassezia species with dandruff. Indian Journal of Medical Research, 139(3), 431–437.

Comments

Post a Comment